“I look for labels, but mostly I just wonder about what they really mean. How can something be pH balanced? What does ‘all-natural’ really mean?” senior Lily Pellican said.
This sentiment reflects a growing consumer frustration. Cosmetic companies often use buzzwords to capitalize on the latest health trends and appeal to consumer consciousness. Terms like “all-natural” or “sustainable” are not legally regulated, meaning companies can slap these on just about anything.
Shopping for new makeup and skincare can be challenging for teenagers starting their collections because they are inexperienced at interpreting misleading labels. Companies spend over 17 billion dollars advertising to adolescents specifically, who are responsible for the spending of about 180 billion dollars a year.
So, what does pH balanced actually mean for a product? The term “pH balanced” means that a product’s acidity or alkalinity is matched with the natural pH of the surface it interacts with. The ideal skin pH is about 5.5 (slightly acidic) and is determined by the thin layer of sebum and sweat that make up the acid mantle. This mantle provides a barrier to aggressors and maintains the optimal pH. This means it is generally beneficial to use products with similar pH levels to the target area, but this is already factored into most formulations.
Some products, however, must be slightly above or below the ideal pH to function properly. Soaps are more alkaline to lift dirt and oil, while exfoliants are more acidic to break down dead skin cells. Consumers should be careful to mostly use milder products to minimize long-term damage, but the label “pH balanced” is more of a marketing tactic.
A larger issue for teenagers is using products that are too harsh on the skin, which leads to long-term damage. Overcleansing the skin can lead to increased alkalinity and dryness, which can cause eczema or psoriasis. When the skin becomes too acidic, it is prone to acne and redness.
“When I buy products, I usually consider the brand they are from. Is it reputable? Is it sketchy? I also look for the ingredients list,” Pellican said. “Sometimes it can be misleading, especially if a company uses the ingredient’s scientific name, which makes it sound less appealing and possibly scarier than it actually is. I’ve seen people shy away from perfectly fine products because it says tocopherol acetate, which just means Vitamin E.”
For senior Melissa Alavarez, paying attention to labels is important because it can indicate the quality of ingredients. “I am trying to heal [my skin], so I tend to look for products with cleaner ingredients,” Alavarez said. “I think that some products can be misleading in what they are adding into their label. At least in my opinion, they should be more specific about what the product is meant to do for [consumers] if it’s makeup or skincare.”
Clean beauty products often avoid irritants, endocrine disruptors, or carcinogens. However, the “clean” label means little without specific regulations and legal frameworks. In California, the Toxic-Free Cosmetics Act bans the manufacture or sale of cosmetic products containing 24 specific ingredients known to cause cancer and reproductive harm, including formaldehyde and phthalates.
Products containing clean ingredients aren’t groundbreaking—they’re expected for general consumer safety. When labels become popular and gain attention like trends, marketing teams want their products to be as eye-catching as possible. This creates an opportunity for consumers to be misinformed and make unintentionally harmful choices because they trust the popularity of the product.
“False marketing [can] be harmful. There’s certain products that you know work for the masses, but [for certain people] ingredients can really damage their skin,” sophomore Ines Bensoussan said. To combat falling for marketing claims or popularity, she often reads product reviews.
This kind of deceptive branding extends to “greenwashing,” where companies exaggerate their environmental responsibility by misrepresenting products or operations. Products labeled “environmentally friendly” and “non-toxic” are often readily bought by well-intentioned people. Unfortunately, their claims are usually not backed up. “There’s more environmental damage down the line, and people are supporting these companies because [they] want to make a choice that is helpful for the environment,” AP Environmental Science teacher Erica Woll said.
One such offensive label is reef-safe sunscreen. Most people associate “reef safe” with mineral sunscreen, which typically avoids oxybenzone and octinoxate. People cite coral bleaching as a negative effect of these chemicals, but this isn’t the whole story.
Studies show that the presence of oxybenzone in the water alone is not the issue—it’s the interactions with sunlight. For the sea plants (corals and anemones), the oxybenzone disrupts their metabolism by forming a toxin. This toxin disrupts the coral’s relationship with the symbiotic algae zooxanthellae—which is responsible for providing nutrients to the coral. As ocean temperatures rise, the algae are also expelled from the coral, causing the white appearance. This can be exacerbated by the presence of chemicals from sunscreen, but climate change is a more important indicator for ocean health, not a chemical in a sunscreen. In fact, no sunscreen has been shown to be completely safe for marine life.
Mineral sunscreens work by forming a physical barrier on the skin. They commonly contain nanoparticles of either zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. When improperly set, these nanoparticles easily wash off into the water. Recent studies have concluded that non-coated nanoparticles of these minerals are harmful to fish, coral, and other marine life. This is because they cause oxidative stress in sunlight (this means it causes coral bleaching).
Not even “reef-safe” sunscreens are reef safe. Sunscreens containing organic oils can be toxic for marine life as well. These oils act as natural pesticides, meaning they can disrupt the nervous system of different species and become hazardous.
These risks, however, can be minimized by following all use instructions. For instance, leaving on the sunscreen for 15 minutes before entering water allows it to set and dry, thereby minimizing the risk of it washing off and harming marine life.
In the US, cosmetics are not actually FDA-approved, they are FDA-regulated. Other than color additives, no cosmetic products or ingredients are required to have FDA approval, but there are some laws applying to their presence in interstate commerce.
While some of these things may be a cause for concern, most cosmetic products are ultimately safe, if only a little misleading in their claims.
What this means for consumers is that ultimately manufacturers are responsible for ensuring the safety and effectiveness of their products, which is why it’s crucial to research brands and be cautious of marketing hype. Before buying into the latest “clean beauty” fad, be sure to research the trend’s legitimacy to ensure effectiveness and the meaning of the claim.
