The Labubu, a line of zoomorphic dolls with toothsome grins and gleaming, bejeweled eyes, has soared in popularity this summer. Their demand is a topic of debate. While many denounce them as a microtrend, others have embraced Labubus as cute and winsome.
“I personally don’t like Labubus,” senior Olivia Tantisira said. “I’m not against people who have them though.”
However, others are more intrigued. “The Labubu trend is really weird—but interesting,” junior Pigi Papapanagiotou said. “It shows how our generation interacts with each other. You see someone buy one and suddenly you feel like you have to, too.”
Debuting in 2019, the dolls only gained widespread popularity in the West this year. By the time social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram disseminated the word of the Labubu, they had already flown off the shelves—creating a lucrative market for resellers on platforms such as StockX and eBay. Despite most retailing for $28, some Labubu resale prices have reached thousands of dollars—a price some dedicated fans are willing to pay for some rare editions, like The Vans Labubu.
With their keychain attachment, Labubus easily double as playful accoutrements. The dolls have been spotted on stars such as Lady Gaga, David Beckham, K-pop idol Lisa, and were even name-dropped in Lizzo’s new single. “How you talkin’ sh*t ’bout me? Can’t even outdress my Labubu,” she sings.
Initially designed by Hong Kong illustrator Kasing Lung, Labubus are now sold by Pop Mart—a Chinese-based toy company pioneering the “blind box” industry, where gambling and commerce entwine. The company is valued at $47 billion, dwarfing Mattel’s $5.61 billion market capitalization.
On the internet, countless creators have posted videos showing themselves adorning their purses with Labubus. Some of the most viral videos depict the grimacing dolls on Birkin bags, which are considered the world’s most expensive purses.
Apart from their divisive aesthetic, the dolls have also sparked discourse on micro-trends and their ethical implications. Many now see the Labubu as a symbol of consumerism, joining the ranks of fads like Dubai Chocolate, the sweet treat whose internet fame was coupled with the Labubu’s. “Everyone’s obsessed now, but in a month they’ll move on and throw it away,” Papapanagiotou added.
After photos of a Labubu left on Karl Marx’s grave took the internet by storm, many TikTok users were quick to compare the trend to late-stage capitalism—a term coined by Werner Sombart—whose contemporary usage is colloquially used to describe a malaise with corporate influence. Though Labubu’s could become just another fleeting trend, their statement charm has the potential to remain in style longer. “The bag-charm trend will stay popular for a while—it’s accessible and customizable to each person’s interests and self-expression,” Tantisira said.
Some economists have gone so far as to label the Labubu mania a recession indicator. Many have drawn parallels between the trend and the “lipstick effect.” The theory suggests that consumers are less likely to spend money on luxury goods during an economic downturn. Instead, they default to more affordable frivolities such as designer lipsticks.
Fashion houses have capitalized on this phenomenon for years, churning out quasi-luxury items such as water bottles, writing utensils, and key chains. It makes sense that this year’s fashion week showcased dozens of bag charms on the runways of Miu Miu, Prada, Coach, and others.
Perhaps the Labubu’s blurring between toy and accessory isn’t so surprising. It’s a sign of the times.
